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Riding in Northern Cambodia & Southern Laos

After the charity ride I was on my own again! My first day was a long one- 140km from Kratie to Stung Treng, and then north through the sparsely populated northern Cambodia. Then into Laos, a new country, new people, new language, and new friends.
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Time to get a haircut- only $3!
Time to get a haircut- only $3!		 I was the most interesting customer all day...
I was the most interesting customer all day...		 Street market in Kratie
Street market in Kratie
TV watching shop. All three TVs were playing pro wrestling, which is very popular here!
TV watching shop. All three TVs were playing pro wrestling, which is very popular here!		 Beginning the long ride... only 142km to Stung Treng
Beginning the long ride... only 142km to Stung Treng		 Riding through villages along the Mekong River
Riding through villages along the Mekong River
Traditional boat builders at work
Traditional boat builders at work		 One of their finished boats
One of their finished boats		 A European couple I met on the road who had been riding for 2 1/2 years!
A European couple I met on the road who had been riding for 2 1/2 years!
At the end of long day- I survived, barely. It was so hot, and I was so tired... I drank 2 gallons of water and only peed once!
At the end of long day- I survived, barely. It was so hot, and I was so tired... I drank 2 gallons of water and only peed once!		 A couple of nice bikers heading the opposite direction...
A couple of nice bikers heading the opposite direction...		 A back yard in Stung Treng, the northernmost city along the highway in Cambodia
A back yard in Stung Treng, the northernmost city along the highway in Cambodia
Crossing the Sekong River, a major tributary to the Mekong
Crossing the Sekong River, a major tributary to the Mekong		 Getting an early start again to beat the heat- looks like it will be cool and cloudy for a while
Getting an early start again to beat the heat- looks like it will be cool and cloudy for a while		 But still sweaty! Always sweaty...
But still sweaty! Always sweaty...
Action shot!
Action shot!		 Northern Cambodia is like the wild west- no water, electric, or sewer and lots of homesteaders making a living off of the land.
Northern Cambodia is like the wild west- no water, electric, or sewer and lots of homesteaders making a living off of the land.		 Water break- I think I saw three cars all morning.
Water break- I think I saw three cars all morning.
My change from the water- this is about 75 cents in Riel, the Cambodian currency, although dollars are more commonly used
My change from the water- this is about 75 cents in Riel, the Cambodian currency, although dollars are more commonly used		 The border crossing on the Cambodian side
The border crossing on the Cambodian side		 Me at the border
Me at the border
Crossing into Laos!
Crossing into Laos!		 Laos border crossing
Laos border crossing		 Quite sleepy- good thing I already had my visa!
Quite sleepy- good thing I already had my visa!
Open road, and just me! (and one of those weird tractor thingies...)
Open road, and just me! (and one of those weird tractor thingies...)		 The great falls on the Mekong River, and back to more civilization
The great falls on the Mekong River, and back to more civilization		 Me at the falls...
Me at the falls...
Tourist trap food- the pile on the farther plate was the part of the chicken we don't usually get in the US- the inedible part!
Tourist trap food- the pile on the farther plate was the part of the chicken we don't usually get in the US- the inedible part!		 The road to the ferry to the 4,000 islands in the Mekong
The road to the ferry to the 4,000 islands in the Mekong		 Me at some of the other falls on the Mekong
Me at some of the other falls on the Mekong
Same same, but different
Same same, but different		 The mighty Mekong at it's lowest flow
The mighty Mekong at it's lowest flow		 Thirsty chicken... that's it... marinate yourself!
Thirsty chicken... that's it... marinate yourself!
Lao fellow who decided to take my bike for a spin... unfortunately he was a bit too short and was not pleased when he got off!
Lao fellow who decided to take my bike for a spin... unfortunately he was a bit too short and was not pleased when he got off!		 Ancient temple on the island
Ancient temple on the island		 The rest of the temple
The rest of the temple
Me at the suspension bridge to another island that really didn't have anything on it (?)
Me at the suspension bridge to another island that really didn't have anything on it (?)		 Falang (foreigners) watching for the endangered freshwater Mekong dolphin
Falang (foreigners) watching for the endangered freshwater Mekong dolphin		 Just me, the dolpins, and dozens of foreigners on two rocky islets in the Mekong
Just me, the dolpins, and dozens of foreigners on two rocky islets in the Mekong
camlao_040.JPG
camlao_040.JPG		 2000 Kip (25 cents) to pop a squat
2000 Kip (25 cents) to pop a squat		 Me above the mighty Mekong
Me above the mighty Mekong
Sunset over the Mekong River
Sunset over the Mekong River		 A lovely ride back to my bungalow
A lovely ride back to my bungalow		 Everything is beautiful and laid back here on the islands
Everything is beautiful and laid back here on the islands
My bungalows
My bungalows		 Home sweet bungalow
Home sweet bungalow		 View from my porch- note the water buffalo swimming in the river!
View from my porch- note the water buffalo swimming in the river!
My trusty steed
My trusty steed		 Don't let the bed fool you- it's hard as a rock, just like every other bed in SE Asia
Don't let the bed fool you- it's hard as a rock, just like every other bed in SE Asia		 The sumptious bathroom, but for $4 a night, I'll take it!
The sumptious bathroom, but for $4 a night, I'll take it!
Life in the Mekong
Life in the Mekong		 Sunrise- time to ride!
Sunrise- time to ride!		 Falang (foreigner) restaurant on the island
Falang (foreigner) restaurant on the island
My new friends and temporary riding partners- Henri and Anipier from Montreal
My new friends and temporary riding partners- Henri and Anipier from Montreal		 Me, just off the ferry and ready to ride
Me, just off the ferry and ready to ride		 Ok, I thought it was funny
Ok, I thought it was funny
Typical riding in southern Laos
Typical riding in southern Laos		 Stopping for some a drink and some noodle soup
Stopping for some a drink and some noodle soup		 Lunch break...
Lunch break...
A map that shows the portions of Laos that was bombed during the conflict in Vietnam, and still has unexploded ordinance
A map that shows the portions of Laos that was bombed during the conflict in Vietnam, and still has unexploded ordinance		 A conviently located guesthouse
A conviently located guesthouse		 Nice digs, with AC, for about 70,000 Kip (about $9)
Nice digs, with AC, for about 70,000 Kip (about $9)
Breakfast stop
Breakfast stop		 On the road with Henri
On the road with Henri		 Vendors mobbing the bus- they never do that for me, and I'm a lot hungrier riding my bike!
Vendors mobbing the bus- they never do that for me, and I'm a lot hungrier riding my bike!
Getting ready to cross the Mekong to Champasak
Getting ready to cross the Mekong to Champasak		 Henri and Anipier on the ferry
Henri and Anipier on the ferry		 With a whole truck full of beer
With a whole truck full of beer
Crossing on the ferry
Crossing on the ferry		 A ferry going the other way that looks similar to ours
A ferry going the other way that looks similar to ours		 Don't see many of these flags in the US...
Don't see many of these flags in the US...
Biker gang...
Biker gang...		 Visiting the ancient Angkor temple at Wat Phou (that's Wat Poo!)
Visiting the ancient Angkor temple at Wat Phou (that's Wat Poo!)		 Clouds in the distance- rain coming, cool rain please come our way!
Clouds in the distance- rain coming, cool rain please come our way!
Offerings at the foot of Buddha
Offerings at the foot of Buddha		 Buddha in the shade
Buddha in the shade		 Inside the temple- originally Hindu when built around the year 1000, but now converted to a Buddhist temple
Inside the temple- originally Hindu when built around the year 1000, but now converted to a Buddhist temple
Footprint of the Buddha and elephant carved into the cliff
Footprint of the Buddha and elephant carved into the cliff		 Interesting bug that wandered by...
Interesting bug that wandered by...		 Looking down on the temple
Looking down on the temple
Looking down and out from the temple on the side of the hill- the ponds in the distance were dug as part of the temple complex
Looking down and out from the temple on the side of the hill- the ponds in the distance were dug as part of the temple complex		 This sign was that it said that Angkor Wat was only 240km away along an ancient road, and I'd been riding for 3 weeks!
This sign was that it said that Angkor Wat was only 240km away along an ancient road, and I'd been riding for 3 weeks!		 The rains finally came, thank goodness!
The rains finally came, thank goodness!
Back at our guest house- time to say goodbye!
Back at our guest house- time to say goodbye!		 Some shots of me riding for a change...
Some shots of me riding for a change...		 camlao_087.JPG
camlao_087.JPG
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camlao_088.JPG		 camlao_089.JPG
camlao_089.JPG		 Last shot- have a great ride!
Last shot- have a great ride!
I got to cross on the smaller ferry this time
I got to cross on the smaller ferry this time		 Very smaller ferry
Very smaller ferry		 Washington crossing the Delaware?
Washington crossing the Delaware?
Yep, it's actually waterworthy
Yep, it's actually waterworthy		 In the largest town yet I'd seen in Laos- Pakse
In the largest town yet I'd seen in Laos- Pakse		 I head up to the Bolevean Plateau- a 3,300 foot climb to see waterfalls and coffee plantations
I head up to the Bolevean Plateau- a 3,300 foot climb to see waterfalls and coffee plantations
A side road to see a waterfall- and under construction
A side road to see a waterfall- and under construction		 First waterfall
First waterfall		 Lower waterfall
Lower waterfall
Good swimming hole for the locals!
Good swimming hole for the locals!		 Young coffee plantation
Young coffee plantation		 Tad Fane waterfall- reminded me of Hawaii
Tad Fane waterfall- reminded me of Hawaii
It's a tall one...
It's a tall one...		 My poor leg- some bugs really got me! But only the left leg, very strange. Must taste better.
My poor leg- some bugs really got me! But only the left leg, very strange. Must taste better.		 Rural house on the plateau
Rural house on the plateau
A bridge at the next waterfall
A bridge at the next waterfall		 A very touristy waterfall park, but nice!
A very touristy waterfall park, but nice!		 Griding herbs in a hollow in a rock in the river
Griding herbs in a hollow in a rock in the river
Gibbons!
Gibbons!		 Two gibbons were living in the tree behind my guesthouse
Two gibbons were living in the tree behind my guesthouse		 Very cute
Very cute
And amazing to watch- very active swinging around
And amazing to watch- very active swinging around		 camlao_113.JPG
camlao_113.JPG		 camlao_114.JPG
camlao_114.JPG
camlao_115.JPG
camlao_115.JPG		 My guesthouse, about $8, but no hot water
My guesthouse, about $8, but no hot water		 I was at the highest elevation here- about 3500 feet and I felt a strange sensation- my toes were actually a little chilly!
I was at the highest elevation here- about 3500 feet and I felt a strange sensation- my toes were actually a little chilly!
Water and breakfast stop before heading off into uncharted territory
Water and breakfast stop before heading off into uncharted territory		 Coconut, egg, rice, and bean treat- sweet and yummy!
Coconut, egg, rice, and bean treat- sweet and yummy!		 I rode for about half a day on some very bad, rough, muddy dirt roads through very rural areas
I rode for about half a day on some very bad, rough, muddy dirt roads through very rural areas
Very rural village- I would have enjoyed the ride more, but the road was so bumpy I barely had time to look up
Very rural village- I would have enjoyed the ride more, but the road was so bumpy I barely had time to look up		 Typical scene- kids love to yell 'sabai dee' (hello) and wave
Typical scene- kids love to yell 'sabai dee' (hello) and wave		 Shade grown coffe
Shade grown coffe
Ugh.
Ugh.		 Apparently there are a still a few big old trees, or there were
Apparently there are a still a few big old trees, or there were		 And suddenly, after wandering lost for hours, I arrived at my destination- Tad Lo waterfall
And suddenly, after wandering lost for hours, I arrived at my destination- Tad Lo waterfall
My bungalow on the river- about $3.50 a night
My bungalow on the river- about $3.50 a night		 The 'facilities'
The 'facilities'		 Sunset over the falls
Sunset over the falls
My bungalow on the river (in case you missed it in the earlier picture)
My bungalow on the river (in case you missed it in the earlier picture)		 And here is a another view, with the bungalow highlighted
And here is a another view, with the bungalow highlighted		 Unexpectedly, Henri and Anipier showed up, and we drank some beers to celebrate
Unexpectedly, Henri and Anipier showed up, and we drank some beers to celebrate
Lao decor- flowers in a cluster bomb
Lao decor- flowers in a cluster bomb		 Dawn, and ready to ride! (yes it's true- it has to be done... it's just too hot to ride much during the afternoon)
Dawn, and ready to ride! (yes it's true- it has to be done... it's just too hot to ride much during the afternoon)		 Massive hydroelectric project... made by China
Massive hydroelectric project... made by China
Typical road on the Bolavean
Typical road on the Bolavean		 A poorer village along the way
A poorer village along the way		 Two major fuel sources- charcoal in the foreground to cook with, and fuel in the shed for cars and motorbikes
Two major fuel sources- charcoal in the foreground to cook with, and fuel in the shed for cars and motorbikes
The next waterfall- a ecotourism project
The next waterfall- a ecotourism project		 Nice spot with columnar basalt
Nice spot with columnar basalt		 The 'sanitized' Lao tribal village
The 'sanitized' Lao tribal village
Two women from the local tribe- beautiful
Two women from the local tribe- beautiful		 This man took the time to show me how to play all of the local instruments
This man took the time to show me how to play all of the local instruments		 The centerhouse
The centerhouse
Interesting sign in the village
Interesting sign in the village		 Beautiful handwoven cloth made by this woman in the village
Beautiful handwoven cloth made by this woman in the village
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Eugene 31-Dec-2012 13:53
Thanks for sharing these beautiful pics of this adventurous trip. I love Cambodia, have been there once backpacking for a month. And will go back in 2013 and cross the border to visit Laos, too.
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