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We spent a happy 18 days touring Sri Lanka courtesy of Tikalanka http://www.tikalanka.com/HTML/intro.asp Labelling completed!! A friendly country, lots to see and do, with nice beaches and a warm, warm sea in which to swim!! We saw at least 30 different species of bird including 6/12 species of raptor!

Get your tickets booked!

I have copied our itinery and added various comments!

Interesting academic article on stupas in Sri Lanka, still the largest brick structures in the world ....< http://www.stupa.org.nz/imagine/CHSPaper.pdf

ARRIVE Day 2
(29 October)
Arrive Dubai (Terminal 3) at 0400. Transfer to your flight to Colombo. Depart Dubai (Terminal 3) at 0730 on Emirates flight EK650 and arrive Colombo airport at 1230. Greeted by your dedicated Tikalanka Tours chauffeur guide and transfer to Colombo city. Night stay at Havelock Place Bungalow, Colombo, which is a British colonial-era bungalow and an urban oasis, quietly secreted away from the city’s hustle and bustle. The six tastefully decorated rooms reflect the bungalow’s colonial heritage, with antique furniture and rugs, and historic photos adorning the walls. Each bedroom opens onto its own privatepatio or the garden. [Standard Room, B&B]

Room 5 - small room no storage but unusual bathroom with area open to the sky with ferns and ornamental plant in the corner. Tiny private patio, with v slippery patio outside. Good double bed on concrete dias. Has a conventional fan and ac although this ceased to produce cold air on the second night.
Communal room tasteful and spacious, gardens very lush and tropical. Swimming pool more a large garden pond but definately swimmable, if so inclined. Dinner very nice.........good variety, and well cooked. Lion beer v quaffable. Breakfast, English v nice, Sri Lankan breakfast was last nights curry – and very good it was too.
Mine Host attentive and prompt. Staff likewise.

Good review of own restautant on TA and I would concur.

Day 3
(30 October)
One-day tour of Colombo city, including visits to Bellanwila Temple, the National Museum, Beira Lake, old Parliament Building (closed), and Galle Face Green, before experiencing the banter
and bartering of Pettah bazaar (mostly closed on a sunday, driver/guide left us to get on with it, so probably missed alot incl the Dutch Church), which is one of the oldest districts of Colombo and famous for selling everything under the sun!. Didn't visit Old Parliament Building (?not open on sunday).

Night stay at Havelock Place Bungalow, Colombo.
[Standard Room, B&B]

Day 4
(31 October)
Drive north to Anuradhapura, the first capital of ancient Lanka in the 3rd century BC. 8 hours 90 min stops Night stay at Palm Garden Village Hotel, Anuradhapura, which is set in 38 hectares of grounds, including a lake used by elephants, deer, water buffaloes and wild boar as a
watering hole. [Standard Room, H/B] Large triple room en suite ac no separate room fan. Large swimming pool which we used on arrival. Swam in an unlit pool, joined by two Germans, then the lights came on! Buffet of various v hot curries....went for a post prandial stroll amidst fireflies to the lake, and listened to a veritable cacophany of frogs! Lightning in the distance.

Day 5
(01 November)
Poor night, heat, then really itchy bitten feet! I rose at 0700 to look for Elephants, Ruth joined me, spotted E skid marks and poo. Breakfast, curries - chicken and dal, croissants etc, as a result of which we skipped lunch.
After breakfast, head to the hilltop temple of Mihintale, 'the cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka', and enjoyed a guided walking tour of this historic site. Medamaluwa monastery, then up Aradhaba Gala (invitation rock) saw the modern white budda image and Mahaseya Dagoba a real beauty! I enjoyed this, see pics! 1840 steps! In the afternoon visited the ancient city of Anuradhapura. Went to the massive red brick Jetavana dagoba, and museum. One brick dagoba Abhayagiri encased in scaffolding having the last of what must have been a rather pretty covering of bushy vegetation removed! Elephant pond, the moonstone etc Absorbed the atmosphere of Ruvanveliseya Dagoba and Sri Maha Bodhi, the oldest recorded tree of which there is one branch remaining. It seems to have sprouted a large tree though!

Night stay at Palm Garden Village Hotel, Anuradhapura. [Standard Room, H/B]

Day 6
(02 November)
Later breakfast. V disturbed night, up 0730 to go Elephant spotting, found recent footprints. Poos older. Ruth swam while I photographed a Golden Oreole, a Treecreeper and after breakfast a Hornbill.
Ruth had Sri Lankan breakfast and I had omelette and croissants. Drive south to Dambulla to climb gently up the granite massif to visit Sri Lanka’s finest cave temples with their well-preserved
paintings and statues dating back to the 1st century BC. Really v good indeed and a must see of anywhere in Sri lanka! Absolutely brilliant!!!
Night stay at Lake Lodge, Dambulla, which is a boutique hotel on the edge of Kandalama Tank (reservoir) with views through foliage over the lake to Sigiriya rock fortress and the Pothana Hills or across open ‘Dry Zone’ countryside. Lake Lodge features a swimming pool and al
fresco dining with a Sri Lankan fusion menu. The property is currently unlicensed so alcohol is best bought beforehand to avoid disappointment! [Deluxe Room, H/B]

Bit of a slow start, felt not very welcome – but this was a very false impression. Swam in nice pool, pot of tea, onto Pumpkin Soup, Indian Chicken korma Sri Lankan style! Curd & honey mmmm! (Curd is yoghurt made from Water Buffalo milk) Met manager who organised us with Sri Lankan breakfast, and dinner, epic!

Bed hard, shower good.

Day 7
(03 November)
Head to the medieval capital of Polonnaruwa for a guided tour of its historic temples and exquisitely carved statues. In the afternoon, drive back to Kaudulla for a jeep safari in Kaudulla National Park to see 60 elephants and a spectacular array of Sri Lankan bird life. Saw three different Eagles, guessing - a Fish Eagle, Some sort of brown Eagle, a Young White Bellied Eagle Return to Dambulla. Night stay at Lake Lodge,
Dambulla. [Deluxe Room, H/B]

Epic Sri Lankan meal..........washed down with a beer!


Day 8
(04 November)
Early morning (07.45) ascent of the rock fortress of Sigiriya to view the surrounding countryside not at dawn – which would have needed an 0500 rise, a very special experience indeed. Guided tour of Sigiriya's rock palace and ornamental gardens before returning to Lake Lodge and at leisure for the rest of the day. We were taken for a paddle on a local fishing trimaran, onto an island – lots of Kites and Eagles. Night stay at Lake Lodge, Dambulla. Another Sri Lankan epic, highlights being Pumpkin Curry and the Chicken Curry. The banana curry from Ash Banana was rather boring, would be better for our tastes to use standard bananas!
Ordered bed tea for 0800, breakfast 0830.
[Deluxe Room, H/B]

Day 9
(05 November)
Continued south to Kandy, one of the principal points of the Cultural Triangle. The second city of Sri Lanka has a picturesque setting around its lake, a rich historical and cultural heritage, a comfortable Mediterranean-type climate, and World Heritage Site status, and a trip to Kandy is a must for anyone visiting the island. Night stay at Hanthana House, Kandy homestay. This family home offers a comfortable stay in attractive surroundings with the added benefit of tasty and authentic Sri Lankan home cooking. Hanthana House is approximately 4 km from Kandy in the Hanthana Hills, an area known for cultivating some of the first tea grown on the island. Be aware you stay in an adjacent larger house - no air conditioning or mosquito nets. There is the obligatory fan which helps.
[Standard Room, H/B]


Day 10
(06 November)
After an early breakfast, experience the Buddhist puja (blessing ceremony) at the Temple of the Tooth, which houses Sri Lanka’s most revered religious relic, V busy with queues as we saw this on a sunday! Visited the beautifully kept and well-presented Peradeniya Botanic Gardens on the outskirts of Kandy. Well worth visiting! Vast colonies of Fruit Bats!
Night stay at Hanthana House, Kandy.
[Standard Room, H/B]

Hot and non ac night, after SL dinner. Shared some whiskey with Sam and Rod Sheppard < http://www.travelrod.co.uk along with Pathi and another driver.

Day 11
(07 November)
Guided tour of the temples of Lankathilaka (brilliant with stupa, Hindu temple one end and Buddist at the other. Also had a buddist ceremony, from which we were excluded. Three 5 y/o children now monklets), Embekke and Gadaladeniya (in that order) in the countryside around Kandy, which exhibit the late flowering of Kandyan artistic craftsmanship. Night stay at Hanthana House, Kandy.
Had v good Sri Lankan curry - best were sprat sambal and ?spinach.

Day 12
(08 November)
Transfer to Kandy railway station for a scenic train journey into the upper Hill Country, passing through tea plantations and past spectacular waterfalls on your way to Nuwara Eliya, the British colonial capital of the Hill Country and the highest town in Sri Lanka at 1900 m above sea level. On arrival at Nanu Oya railway station, picked up by chauffeur guide and continue to Nuwara Eliya (there is a higher station that would have been more interesting to dismount from the train.....) Tea and omelette/chips before heading to Mackwood Tea Estate Labookellie where we were plied with cups of tea, a guided tour and bought......tea! < http://www.mackwoodstea.com Night stay at St Andrews Jetwing Hotel
which is a colonial-era villa set amongst magnificent gardens that overlook the golf course and rolling hills just above the main town centre. [Standard Room, H/B]s

Rather shabby chic, great food, french windows opening onto lawns. No swimming pool!

We enjoyed this hotel greatly!

Day 13
(09 November)
Drive to Horton Plains for an early morning (07.00 except the driver was late arriving at 0730) walked through the heath and forest of Horton Plains National Park, via Baker’s Falls, in time to miss seeing the awe-inspiring views at World's End because of the cloud. Make sure your guide takes you to Little Worlds End first asthis is the quickest way to Worlds End so minimizing the chance of missing the view. Returned to Nuwara Eliya to amble around ‘The City of Light’ and enjoy a little piece of England in the tropics!
Night stay at St Andrews Jetwing Hotel
[Standard Room, H/B]

Day 14
(10 November)
Head to Ella in the southern Hill Country before dropping 1000 m through Ella Gap to the southern plain below. Continued south across the hot and dry southern plain to Tanamalwila before heading west to Uda Walawe. Night stay at Kalu’s Hideaway, Uda Walawe, which is surrounded by woodland and paddy fields on the edge of the Uda Walawe reservoir. [Standard Room, H/B]

Room, well dark as couldn't open the window, no mosquito mesh, beds single with nets. Food adequate, pool a necessity.

Day 15
(11 November)
Early morning (07.00) jeep safari in Uda Walawe National Park, the island’s main elephant reserve. Other than herds of elephants, wild buffaloes, sambars and leopards (rarely) are
seen, but the other main highlight is spotting raptors like the White-bellied Fish Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle and Changeable Hawk Eagle. Leave the park and visit the Elephant Transit Home, where orphaned elephants are looked after before being reintroduced into the wild (supported by the Born Free Foundation). Head to the south coast before enjoying a leisurely drive west along the picturesque southern coastline to Unawatuna. Night stay at Thambapanni Retreat, Unawatuna, which is nestled under a densely wooded cliff only 5 minutes’ walk from the beach front, a shady and secluded sanctuary surrounded by bamboo, mango and kitul trees resonant with birdsong. Monkeys, butterflies and squirrels inhabit the wooded garden, and tortoises and iguanas are common visitors. The spacious rooms are decorated and furnished in neutral shades and all offer satellite TV, DVD players, IDD telephone and minibar. Actually we also had a super completely private balcony which seemed way up in the trees with the monkeys and tree frog (singular) The swimming pool, reminiscent of a jungle plunge pool, enhances the natural surroundings. A terrace restaurant offers a choice of Sri Lankan, Chinese and Western dishes.
[Deluxe Room, B&B]

Actually ate at sister hotel with beach side restaurant, waves lapping at the foot of the restaurant. Good food, in fact excellent, and we ate there 3/4 evenings.......

Day 16
(12 November)
At leisure. Night stay at Thambapanni Retreat, Unawatuna.
[Deluxe Room, B&B]
Walked to Jungle beach, disturbed by ogling boys, at the first larger beach so we walked to a further one. This had a small lagoon and we were alone for about an hour. Good birds and lovely warm water. Invited to return by glass bottomed water taxi by some Sri Lankans.

Day 17
(13 November)
At leisure. Night stay at Thambapanni Retreat, Unawatuna.
[Deluxe Room, B&B]

Breakfast by the water, Sri Lankan style. Swam first and afterwards. Took a took took (or tuk tuk) after much haggling for 150SR to Jungle Beach swam lots moved to first beach as ours too crowded, hot and swam. Walked back.

Day 18
(14 November)
Continue west along the southern coastline to Galle for a guided tour of the Old Dutch Fort, a World Heritage Site. Amble around the ramparts and stroll through the Arab Quarter. Return to Unawatuna. Night stay at Thambapanni Retreat, Unawatuna.
[Deluxe Room, B&B]

Day 19
(15 November)
Should have transfered to Galle railway station for the scenic coastal train trip
to Colombo – unfortunately the railway was being rebuilt – since September and the tour manager should have been aware of this. Driven to Negombo. Arrive at Jetwing Beach, which is a chic and stylish hotel offering a luxury stay in refined surroundings and where Sri Lankan minimalism enhances the environs. The spacious rooms have dark wood furniture and all have an ocean view with balcony or terrace. The luxury bathrooms are fitted out to very high standards with rain drench showers and bathtubs, and the glass screen between bathroom and bedroom gives the whole living area an open feel. Very nice we enjoyed this and had a sail!!
Night stay at Jetwing Beach, Airport. [Deluxe Room, B&B]

Day 20
(16 November)
At leisure during the day.
We paid $75 to keep the room till our departure. We felt this should have been included as an option in the tour.

I did get a bit tired of having to think about tipping all and sundry however....!! be aware that the chaffeur/guide will not advise on tipping - there is a suggested rate in the Tikalanka handout. (It’s also good that one can buy most drugs from local pharmacies as Ruth developed shingles near the close of the holiday and we were able to start treatment the same day.)

Birds we saw, and mostly photographed!

Little Cormorants
Darter (Indian Darter)
Intermediate Egret (Cattle Egret) – everywhere!
Great Egret
Pond Heron
Grey Heron
Painted Stork
Asian Open Billed Stork
Wooly-Necked Stork
Black Headed Ibis
Black Shouldered Kite
Brahminy Kite
White Bellied Sea Eagle
Grey Headed Fish Eagle
Crested Serpent Eagle
Changeable Hawk Eagle
Sri Lanka Junglefowl
Indian Peafowl (Peacock and Hen)
Red Wattled Lapwing
Orange Breasted Green Pigeon
Rose Winger Parakeet
White Throated Kingfisher
Common Kingfisher
Green Bee-eater
Blue Tailed Bee-eater
Indian Roller
Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill
Malabar Pied Hornbill
Barn Swallow (Common Swallow)
Common Wood Shrike (Jungle Beach)
Asian Paradise Flycatcher (Indian Paradise Flycatcher)
Asian Paradise Flycatcher (Ceylon Paradise Flycatcher)
Black-hooded Oriole
Baya Weaver
Myna Bird

Conclusion – a great holiday and we wouldn’t have missed it!!