Fry a chopped shallot or two in hot olive oil for a few minutes, until softened, then add carnaroli (or arborio) rice,
stirring to coat with the oil. Add a glass of dry white wine (or dry vermouth) and simmer until nearly absorbed, then
add a ladleful of hot chicken stock, simmering and stirring, adding more stock as it becomes absorbed, for about 18 minutes,
until the rice is just cooked but still a little al dente. Meanwhile, poach smoked haddock in a shallow pan of simmering
water for 6 – 7 minutes, until just cooked. Drain and break up into large chunks, removing any skin and bones.
When the rice is just cooked, stir in a squeeze of lemon juice, a knob of butter and some roughly chopped watercress,
season with freshly ground pepper, stirring gently until the watercress wilts. Add the flaked fish, cover and let stand
for a couple of minutes. Serve in warm bowls with grated sharp cheddar cheese.