Photos of my two journeys along Malaysia's Jungle Railway in September 2005 and 2006. On both occasions I caught a train from Singapore to Gemas, terminus of the Jungle Railway, then caught the train up the line.
The service on the Jungle Railway consists of night-time express trains between Tumpat and Kuala Lumpur, and Tumpat and Singapore, every day. Slow daytime trains also run between Gemas and Tumpat (the northern terminus of the line). There are also about two slow trains a day between Gua Musang and Tumpat. At certain times of the year, a daytime express train (with air-conditioning and a dining car) also runs between Singapore and Tumpat every day.
Train services and times are subject to change so it is essential to check the latest timetables on the Malaysian Railways web site and study the available options when planning your journey. (Print the timetables and take them with you for reference.)
When I spent a night at Gemas before catching a morning train, the best hotel was Hotel Gemas, 2.5km north-west of town in a modern shopping centre. It’s basic but clean and decent, and comfortable enough for one night.
There is now a more central and convenient alternative, Hotel Tropicana. Tricia Ware of Sheffield writes that a double room, ensuite, with TV, very clean, new and air-conditioned, cost 50 MYR a night. It’s only a short walk from the station. Outside the station, turn left, then follow the road around to the right and the Tropicana is on the right, opposite Hot Link and Hot Bread. It’s also very close to Gemas Curry Point where Tricia bought good food for the journey very cheaply. Email: tropicana_hotel@yahoo.com; phone 07-948-2668. My brother, who has also stayed at the Tropicana, reports that it caters mainly to short-term customers (i.e. by the hour) but is still a good place to stay.
Two other hotels in central Gemas are not appealing. Hotel Hung Suan, opposite the station and painted pink, has cubicles with partitions only part way up to the ceiling and wire above that. Strictly for the desperate. Hotel Bee Chew, painted yellow and next to the station, seems nicer, but was deserted when I arrived so I couldn't look at a room. I did, however, walk in and up and down a corridor, so the security is lousy.
Rumah Rehat (government rest house) a few metres beyond the Bee Chew is another possibility, but was closed when I arrived. If you could get a room there, it would be a very convenient place to stay. Yet another intriguing possibility is staying at Gemas Golf Resort, which I haven't tried but would certainly like to.
The only food available on the slow trains are bags of fruit and birds' eggs sold by local women. Taking your own drinking water is advisable. During longer stops, coffee and other snacks can be bought on the platform at larger stations.
Breaking your journey along the Jungle Line means you pass more of the journey in daylight. The scenery is well worth seeing (although the jungle is far from virgin) so why sit there in the dark? Kuala Lipis is one good place to stop. Accommodation options include some decent mid-range hotels. There’s also an old Government Rest House, which is full of character, but guidebooks are not enthusiastic about it. In 2005 I stayed at a mid-range hotel called Centrepoint and recommend it.
Gua Musang is another good place to break your journey. It has a few budget hotels and three mid-range ones. In 2006 I stayed at Fully Inn, which is excellent, and an easy walk from the station (see the map in Rough Guide). In addition to cheap cafes in the streets, there's a decent cafe on platform 1 of the station and a KFC in the main street.
If you are heading for Kota Bharu, leave the train at Wakaf Bharu. Taxis meet the train. KB lacks charm but is interesting enough for a brief stop. Its museums, markets, shops and nearby temples provide enough to do for a day.