we stumbled upon this gorgeous village while taking a B road between Nevers and Auxerre on the drive back from Spain to Holland. what a wonderful detour it was. the pink hotel was quite a find. we had an amazing meal there and it turned out the chef used to work at the Ivy in London but has returned home to his village. three delicious courses for 15 euros! they even arranged accommodation for us at an old farmhouse run by a lovely english couple in Coeurs, a tiny hamlet not far from the town. the roman baths behind the church in Varzy are well worth checking out too.