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Surf Scoter: A Cuddy Cabin Bartender
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20-4 Bartender Part IV: Redos
>> Seacock Replacement
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Seacock Replacement
Replacement of original brass seacock and associated fittings and hose.
New bronze seacock/hose barb vs old brass equivalents and hose. Handles removed.
Old one disassembled. "Hose barb" is a brass close nipple, one end's threads filed down to accept hose.
White material sign of dezincification of valve body. In time metal becomes weak and can fail.
Especially likely with 2-3 threads of engagement to thruhull. Thread styles don't match (straight vs taper).
Maple block cut guide -- to reduce height of thruhull stub.
Guide in place; in all, half an inch removed to lower profile of new system.
Thruhull stub at desired height; straight threads will engage about 8 turns.
Rough fit onto stub shows an added half inch of backing needed.
Mounting holes are countersunk to accept flathead woodscrews; extra chuck provides clearance.
Heads of screws too wide; filed to half inch diameter.
Screws in place.
New seacock on added backing, of precise thickness to get correct handle angle.
Final test fit before bedding; handle stud at left.
Seacock bedded; Strainer temporarily reinstalled.
Molded radiator hose: 1-1/2 inch one end necking to 1-1/4 inch.
Necked section and diagram of its intended fate.
Sized to join seacock 1-1/4" hose barb to strainer 1-1/2" barb.
Inch and a half portion up; smaller end on the seacock.
Strainer reinstall: tightening hose barb leading to raw water pump.
Tightening hose clamps galore; two per connection.
Reinstallation complete. Smoke test tomorrow.
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bartenderdave
08-Sep-2009 11:49
Dave Gerr's excellent "Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook" is a good resource for avoiding issues such as my original brass seacock installation. Check out page 279 for the text and photos which stimulated the replacement. Dave K.
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