From Nikko, we used our Japan Rail passes to travel to Utsonomiya and then on the very luxurious Shinkansen to Tokyo, on to Nagoya,where we bought interesting Bento lunch boxes and then rode a 'Limited Expess' train all the way to Takayama, a long, but pleasant journey and well worth it. "With its old inns, shops and sake breweries, Takayama is a rarity... established in the late 16th century, its sights include more thana dozen museums, galleries and exhibitions..." -LP We particularly enjoyed roaming the streets lined with period house and shops, the vibrant Morning Markets in two locations and a short bus ride to Hida-no-Sato, an historic folk village in a pretty setting, consisting of many traditional houses, dismantled in their original settings and reconstructed in the village. Our accommodation at the Rickshaw Inn was excellent - still a traditional ryokan but with a few touches to please Western guests.