Based in a holiday cottage in Jingellic, NSW, just across the Murray River border from Victoria, we found ourselves in green rolling hills and wide grassy river flats, the might Murray, in its upper reaches, full and fast flowing. Water had spread to low paddocks and billabongs. Fat black and white cattle grazed contendedly: cattle country, both dairy and beef. The drive along the Murray from Walwa in Victoria to Tintaldra on the way to the Australian Alpine country was a delight. We looked down on vast river flood plains and then glimpsed the purple snow-capped alpine peaks in the distance.