From the Elliott text, Azerbaijan:
The curious Azeri blend of Islam and Animism is nowhere more vividly portrayed than amid the spooky pinnacles of Besh Barmaq. All prayer and genuflections, pilgrims struggle up the mountain in their Sunday best. In places the rock has been kissed smooth by a procession of devout lips. At the very top, old women hold out gnarled begging hands and several mendicant sages lead prayers on precarious ledges with spectacular views.

You may be lucky enough to hear the superhumanly-rapid babble of prayers--supposedly Islamic and led by a Mullah, but to all intents and purposes, an ancient animist rite evoking the dark powers of the rock beneath very Tibetan-looking prayer knots. It's an odd and eerie atmosphere, though often over-busy on weekends.

A ten minute walk up the steep grassy bank brings you to the base of the rock pinnacles. These are laced with metal stairays, steps and footholds which seem dauntingly steep at times. Nonetheless, even the most rotund pilgrims seems to be able to climb them in high heels.