Shekhawati region in Rajasthan is a little known area off the tourist track. It sees few visitors. This region was once a prosperos trading area located on the Europe to China Silk route. Its located about 260 km from Gurgaon and 180 km from Jaipur..While Jaipur is on the tourist map, few know or bother to make the trek to Shekhawati district to see the havellis..These havellis were constructed by rich traders to serve as their homes Each one trying to outdo the other in size and paintings on its walls. Untill 1958 it was independant and was ruled by the decendants of Takur Nawal Singh, the founder and then it became a part of the state of Rajasthan. Many of India's industrialist families of today started their business in this area. Names such as Singhania, Podar, Goenka etc come to mind. Over the decades they made their money trading and the families moved to cities such as Mumbai, Delhi and Kolkata where they set up very large industries.

The main district capital is Jhunjunu with the towns of Mundhawa and Nawalgarh close by. These towns are known for the frescoed havellis (mansions) dating back to 18th century with some amazing art on its walls both inside and out. Havellis have paintings of elephants for luck, horses for power and camels for love..Most havellis are not maintained and crumbling. Some with a caretaker who makes a living collecting a few rupees as entry fee to let you view the inside. A few wealthier owners have restored the havellis to make them into 3 and 4 star hotels. Options to stay are limited here. There are no five star branded hotel chains. Its best to stay in Mundhawa or Nawalgarh and drive around the small ghost towns nearby.

Visiting Rajasthan is best done in winter when its cool. Summers commence from April to end September with temperatures hovering around 48-50 dec C. The people you meet are friendly and welcoming. There are few visitors and fewer cars. Many streets are so narrow that one has to walk to get to your destination. Restraunts are limited and its best to eat at your hotel. Rajasthani food is amazing and especially their non vegetarian lamb and chicken dishes. The most famous being the “lal maas”, a rich brown gravy with chunks of lamb that melt in your mouth. Best eaten with Indian bread such as nan, paratha or roti. If you are the adventurous sort try the traditional indian rajasthani breakfast of stuffed paratha served with yogurt and pickle. You have a choice of stuffing but the most popular is potato.

Nawalgarh boasts of a wonderful restored havelli called “Grand havelli” that has become a 4 star hotel. To say the interior is grand is putting it mildly. Visitors are welcome to drop in for coffee and tour the property. The Ramnath Podar havelli is a must visit. Now restored and a museum you can enter by buying a ticket. Over 750 frescos on the walls show rajasthani festivals. A train with a steam engine represents the first train of india. A local musician at the havelli will entertain you playing a string instrument. Nearby is the Jairam Dasji Moraka havelli with its rustic feel with its painting of indian gods.

Just 12 km from Nawalgarh is Dundlod where u can view the fort and the Goenka havelli where repairs are currently going on. Further on 50 km away is Ramgarh where there are several frescoed cenotaphs.

Mundhawa is the only other main town 25 km from Nawalgarh that has several havellis. The old fort is now restored and become a hotel. So also the Shahi place havelli and a few others. Some have added a swimming pool. Beer is available but if u are looking for something stronger then its best to bring your own supply. The havellis of Nawalgarh are in general better maintained than those in Mundawa. A local guide is recommended as most havellis are on narrow bylanes and not easy to find on ones own. Life is slow here. No one is in a hurry and residents are happy to chat up visitors. While most havellis are unoccupied, there are some where the decendants of the original owners still reside in a part of the building and so these are only available for viewing from outside.

Rajasthan is sunny so forget the flash and tripod unless you plan to do panoramas or night photography. There is plenty of available light and with almost no pollution the skies are deep blue. My travel kit was two Fuji XE3 bodies with the standard 18~55mm and 10~24mm. While i originally planned on carrying my Hasselblad 500 cm with the 50mm i had second thoughts as the havellis are colourfull and shooting monochrome would fail to showcase the beauty of the colourful frescos on the walls.

So if exploring the India of centuries ago is your thing, then a visit to Shikhawat region is highly recommended. Not only will you come away with unique images but you will have seen a slice of life as it was in the 18th and 19th century in rural India.

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