On December 31, 2022 I returned to MIchoacán, Mexico to take photos of the dances known as Pastorelas for the New Year. My main goal, was to hopefully photograph the Danza de los Ermitaños in Nurio which hadn’t been possible since 2018. This particular dance is done by young men who wear animal skin masks such as coyote, rabbit, fox, and deer over their faces, along with dunce hats and beautifully embroidered punta de cruz aprons from the village as their dance costume.

My first day out was January 1st where I traveled to the Purépecha village of San Lorenzo in the Meseta Purépecha. I was excited to return as I had photographed their pastorela dance in 2019 and 2020. This celebration is made up of Maringuia, Kurpite and Negrito dancers. It is one of my favorite dances to photograph for the New Year.

Much to my surprise it wasn’t anything like it was in the prior years. In the past the Maringuia dancers (men who dress as women) got dressed under the portal of the courtyard of the capilla. When I arrived the gate to the capilla was locked. I later discovered by talking to one of the women of the village, that the padre wouldn’t let this happen in this location anymore. Now there were various locations throughout the village where the Maringuia dancers would get dressed. Many of them were getting dressed perpendicular to the church. Another location was on the calle principal. Interestingly enough, the three other locations were homes where the Negrito dancers who wear women’s clothing were getting dressed. In the past, I had never photographed the Negritos getting dressed.

Not having one group of dancers in one location proved to be challenging as I couldn’t be in all locations at once. Every year there is a new carguero, the group in charge of sponsoring the fiesta. This carguero did everything differently from the prior years. It was more or less a free for all. There was no organized procession after the Maringuia dancers were fully dressed. The Negritos didn’t join them at the front of the procession nor did they carry the statue of the Baby Jesus. The processional float with the Virgin Mary was carried by grown men and not unmarried girls from the village.

Once the three male Negrito dancers, who wear women’s clothing were dressed, they ran rapidly throughout the village with the other Negritos in men’s clothing. It was impossible to keep up with them. Even the grown men in the village couldn’t keep up the pace. Unfortunately, for myself it was a much better event in 2019 and 2020. I was happy I was able to photograph the Negritos getting dressed.

January third and fourth were spent in Nurio which is another Purépecha village in the Meseta Purepecha. These villages are about two hours from Pátzcuaro. Very few tourists come to these villages. From being in Nurio in the past, I was familiar with the events here. Throughout both days, a large group of children and teenagers ran through the streets. They don’t dance. The girls interlock arms and they swing their partner as their metallic, pleated skirts swirl around their bodies. I had forgotten how challenging this was as all the girls covered their faces with their hands as soon as I started to take photos. As the boys wore Negrito masks this wasn’t as problematic. One must have a tremendous amount of patience. The girls did the same with two young men making videos who lived in the village. Eventually, they seemed okay with me taking their photos. Some of the children actually asked me if I could take their photos which made me happy. There were four reinas (queens) for each of the cargueros.

At the end of both days around four o’clock the Ermitaños showed up. They danced and jumped in a circle stimulating animals in a pack. They would growl when I approached them for photos. Unfortunately, most of them made hand symbols which seemed like gang symbols for myself. One doesn’t want to tell them not to make these hand symbols, so I had to accept what they were doing. Usually, I’m the only outsider taking photos in these villages.

Another disappointing experience was when I went to Corupo on January 6th. This village is located near Angahuan in the Meseta Purépecha. I had visited Corupo when I was in Michoacán in October to obtain the correct information about their Pastorela dance that is performed by the masked Viejito dancers and their unmasked female dance partners. The Mayordomo, told me on that visit, the fiesta would be “todo el día” or all day. When I arrived at eleven fifteen, the dancers were in front of the church. I was so happy to see such a colorful and lively dance. The Viejitos dance costumes were embroidered with punta de cruz. Many of the pant legs were adorned with Our Lady of Guadalupe. The masks were beautifully carved. The band was outstanding. As soon as I found a great place to take photos the dance ended. I then followed the group accompanied by the band to the Casa del Carguero where bread and hot chocolate was served. Then much to my surprise, all the dancers began to leave. The dancing was done for the day. From there I went to Angahuan where I photographed the nacimientos in the atrium of the church and the inside of the church which is always delightful!

The rest of my trip was spent taking photos of the churches surrounding Lake Pátzcuaro and in the Meseta Purépecha. I’m particularly fond of all the nacimientos which are so vibrant with twinkling lights, streamers of tinsel, buñelos, candles from San Jeronimo, Christmas decorations and the Baby Jesus. The churches will stay decorated until El Día de la Candelaria on February 2nd.

Taking photos of the indigenous culture in Michoacán has been one of the most difficult challenges I have faced as a photographer as there is so little information. Even when I have gone directly to the source, the information isn’t always correct either. However, when it is correct I feel blessed to experience such vibrancy which is truly a gift to be immersed in something so exceptionally beautiful by being transported to another world!