Worked on Cabin Bulkhead today. Something not quite right. Even though bulkhead made as per instruction (esp trimming to size) it is not 'high enough' when compared to the example in instructions' image. Fitted additional beam across on top and kept doors closed.

I am planning to deviate from the plans and plank the main deck using more realistic scaled lengths of plank (as I did the lower gun deck). This requires fitting a false deck on top of which I can do the planking.

I still need to figure out how the deck planks would have been fitted around the various openings and also whether the 'king plank' was the central plank or fitted on either side of one of the openings on this generation ship. My understanding is that the 'king plank' was a thicker, wider plank used in deck construction to provide structural strength. I am also going to attempt to 'joggle' the deck planks into the edge plank as opposed to just running off the edge beneath the inner hull planks.

On the lower gun deck I used 0.6mm veneer strips between planks to simulate the caulking. I read somewhere this morning that someone used dark wood filler successfully - I want to experiment with that as it would definitely be quicker that way - need to figure out whether it would not dry out over time.

Most of the hull work done. Its been a while to get here, but that's OK. The stern castle still needs gold window frames and decoration which will break the blue that is currently so dominant. Some of the strakes in the bow could have fitted better but reasonably happy. There will be a lot of rope and anchors here when finished to 'distract' and 'hide' the imperfections of the rubbing strakes in the bow. (Well that is what I tell myself)

Somewhere something went wrong here and had to be 'creative'. This is not what the model maker intended. Those familiar with the model will notice that the sides (particularly the back) is a lot thicker than the single plywood shape intended by the instructions. I had to pad it with balsa wood and then had to frame the inside of the windows with 0.6mm veneer to clean up. Also then used 1mm planking strips then on top of the balsa to plank the sterncastle (which was also not intended by the plans). All this because I cut the upper hull planks to short and at the wrong slope.

The sterncastle will be painted which is why I used wood filler here which really looks ugly on these pictures. It was (is?) worrying times - concerned that I messed up a reasonable model at this stage. Still some concern - but hope to be able to save the look - the window frames will be out of scale - but there will be many other items to focus on on the completed model

Hull planking done, stern fixed up, keel and bowsprit support fitted.

Picture shows the patchwork needed in the stern (next to rudder post). Upper part (light wood) will be trimmed back when sterncastle is built so not an issue there.

Nearly done one side.

Managed to do another 3 or 4 widths.

Also decided to do a first pass sanding - even if only to convince myself it would 'clean up OK' - Glad to say it does clean up quite nicely with sanding.

I do find it difficult to keep glue stains off the outside of the wood - especially now with the clamping of planks between the bulkheads very awkward at this stage using the clamps I used to date.

The stealers and half stealers highlighted here turned out OK. Pity not all of them look like this. Also the edges of the bow planking as it terminates against the freeboard planks looks very nice.

The result of about 16hrs work on the hull planking. No cleaning or sanding done yet. Next planking band tackled will be the one below the freeboard working towards the keel

Garboard planks fitted, both port and starboard after a lot of agonising, trimming and re-trimming (and breaking strips of wood.) The model nearly went back into the cupboard but fortunately it came together after 'one more attempt'.

If I do get to a next model, I will approach this a bit differently. One mistake I made was fitting part of the false keel (to use as an edge) before cutting a rabbit (kerf) in the bottom to fit the garboard planks in. The garboard is now a butt-edge joint which will need some filling with shims to shape it as it rotates through to 'vertical'. Will deal with this when cleaning up/sanding the hull.

Symmetry looks OK. I did notice some highs & low spots across some of the bulkheads and adjusted these with 0.6mm veneer shims for the lows after these pictures were taken.

Next step is marking the planking bands on the bulkheads - removing the temporary battens and then tapering & fitting each individual plank going forward - starting with the garboard plank next to the keel.

Laying out planking bands to plan tapers and to minimise any lateral bending against grain of planking strips.

After this set of pictures some more 'shims' were inserted at some of the bulkheads to counter some 'low spots'

Another view down the side of the ship of the completed Freeboard planking.

Have meanwhile been doing some research on planking and studying other web based build logs and am going to do the lower hull planking different to that proposed by the building instructions. (Although saying their are guidelines for planking in the instructions is somewhat of a stretch - it effectively says "Plank the lower hull" with some pictures).

I am going to follow the techniques outlined in "Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners" compiled by Dirk Bakker, Greg Booker & Dave Rogers. I downloaded it from the web ("Model Ship Forum" ?)

Composite of cutting and framing the gunports.

Much 'psyching up' needed before taking a hobby knife to the planking that is so nicely shaped.

Inching forward we are... :)

Pleased with progress. Sanding required now, gun ports to be cut into hull next...

Decided to do full length inner hull planking. Will probably regret that when it comes to cutting the gunports.

I estimate it took about 7hr of hull planking to get to this point. The planking pattern in the bow is not too authentic and I'm (just ever so slightly) forcing the strakes to stay down across the bow to prevent a steep upward curve. This is forcing small stepped joints over the bow which I will be sanding down some weeks down the line.

Made this plank bending jig from a photo in a book. Hope it was worth the time spent...:)

I have decided to take the easy way out for the gundeck... Ran planks straight off and trimmed where necessary. None of the edges of this gundeck will be directly visible on the completed model.

On the top deck I will put down a margin plank and 'joggle' the deck planks into this... (Wonderful hobby - learning new words every day... :) )

Composite image showing completed gun deck - started scraping the deck - still need to sand and seal. darker verneers ('caulking') will stand out more at that stage. Total time logged on model to date - 47 hr of which 33 hr spent on deck planking and using the walnut veneer as caulking.

It was very hot today, on the longest day of the year...

I moved the dock yard to the patio in the early evening and continued with the planking...

And twelve strips down.

One learns as you go along - I am now not using a single long strip of veneer down the length of the planks as in the beginning, but veneer pieces that is approximately the same length as the deck planks. These are spaced with some offset from the plank joints, allowing the last plank laid down to act as a "support" for the next veneer whilst gluing down the next plank...

The problem with the long veneer strips and the gentle curvature of the deck can be seen at the joint between two of the planks just behind the rear mast hole in this image - when trimming the veneer to the deck level - the whole strip pulled out as it was "suspended" just below the top of the planks rather than all the way to the bottom - so some "surgery" will be needed here. Also means that the lines of the planks will not be 100% straight in this part of the deck and some adjustments will have to be made with the next rows to straighten it out.

So we learn.. fortunatley this will not be too visible on the completed model and serves as a good 'training ground'

This is going to take some time. I trimmed down and rough sanded the 'veneer caulking' to get an idea what it would finally look like. Took me about 6 hr to get to this stage of the deck planking - this takes into account cutting the individual planks (about 200), as well as the veneer strips seen to the right of the picture.

The longer strips are glued length wise and then the individual planks layed next to the strip with short veneer strips positioned between the plank ends. This row has to dry completely so that the end bits can be trimme down to the plank widths before the next long run of veneer can be placed.

I am sure it will speed up as my fingers learn to contol tweezers, (not too much) glue and planks at the same time...

Even though much of this deck will be covered by the upper deck, one will be able to look down through skylights and open sections on to this deck. Anyway - still remain good practise for the top deck to be planked probably 1 year down the line...

Laying down the first gun deck planks against a clamped down steel rule.

After a couple of experiments, I decided to complicate life by using 24 scale feet individual planks rather than the longer length planks as called for by the instructions.

Life further complicated by deciding to use 0.6mm walnut veneer between individual planks to simulate the caulking, rather than marking with a pen.

The picture also shows the filler pieces of 'supawood' I formed and fitted in the bow. Hopefully this will help when the hull planking start.

Deviated from builiding instructions. Bow and sterncastle bulkheads to be fitted still. Want to put filler blocks in and shape whilst off the model.

The keel warped after joining two (very) flat pieces. Must have happened during the clamping of the strengthening pieces. I noticed this only when I started fitting the false decks. The aft frame/bulkhead was OK so I completed that part first.

I only then built the keel frame and decided to do it almost full length to be able to straighten the frame. Front false decks lines up. Small mismmatch in foremast position hole through false deck into frame. Nothing major (he says with confidence :) )

I expect it will ake me 2 years or so to build...

This is going to be fun :)

Finally, 11 weeks after placing the order, I received my next project.

Artesania Latina's model of the HMS Surprise.