This is the official version of a story Dave Miller told us to illustrate the dangers of glissading with crampons on and leashing ones ice axe. A few additional notes that aren't included here:
1) The guy was completely naked. The rock and icefall over 2000 feet ripped his clothes to shreds and dragged them off.
2) The ended up lifting the guy off the mountain with Dave's sleeping bag, which was never returned.
3) The guy, who lived, never called to thank Dave for saving his dumb ass.
4) Another woman from the same party wandered alone down the wrong side of the Glacier, and also needed air rescue.

From shastaavalanche.org.

1. Report completed by:
Eric White, Matt Hill (USFS Climbing Rangers), Michael Massari (SWS)

2. Date of Accident:
06/24/01

3. Geographic Location:
Mt. Shasta Wilderness, CA

4. Gender and ages of persons directly involved:
1 Male, 24

5. Total Number of Persons in Party:
12 (10 is the maximum allowed)

6. Details of the Accident:
Male climber was glissading at 13,500 with his crampons on. His crampons
caught and through him into a tumble where his leashed ice axe penetrated
his thigh from hip to knee. He fell approximately 2000 feet.

A. Snow
B. Descending
C. Immediate Cause:
Faulty use of crampons, loss of control-voluntary glissade
D. Contributory Cause:
Exceeding ability
E. Type of injury:
Abrasion
Other: puncture/penetration (ice axe through thigh, hip to knee)

7. Experience Level:
none or little

8. Narrative Description of Accident:
The male climber and his party had climbed the Hotlum-Wintun route on the
northeast side of the mountain. The climber and many in his party, had
very little climbing experience. Although this route is not technically
difficult, it does have steep sections and crosses above hazardous areas
on the Wintun Glacier. On their descent, he decided to glissade wearing
his crampons and his ice axe leashed to his wrist. At about 13,500. on a
40-45 degree slope, the heels of his crampons caught, tumbling him into an
out of control fall. He came to rest at about 11,500. where the slope had
decreased to about 30 degrees. This area was right above a cliff over the
Wintun ice fall.
His party summoned help from a commercially guided Sierra Wilderness
Seminars trip. Two guides, Miller and Rodriguez, responded and used their
cell phone to contact search and rescue at around 14:30. They assessed
and stabilized the climber's injuries. He had abrasions all over his
upper body and his ice axe had entered his thigh just below his pelvis and
exited near his knee. It was deep in his leg and their concerns were that
he had ruptured his femoral artery.
USFS Climbing Ranger, Harrington, who was at 10,400 on the south side of
the mountain, was contacted and responded through white-out conditions.
He arrived at the scene at 16:30 and found the injuries to be stable and
bleeding under control. The climber showed no signs of shock, and they
continued to monitor his condition waiting for air transport. A volunteer
from Siskiyou County Search and Rescue arrived at the scene at 19:00 and
they wrapped the climber in sleeping bags to maintain his body
temperature. At 20:30, a California Department of Forestry Bell super 205
short hauled the climber in a litter with an attendant. He was taken to a
lower elevation where he was transferred to the California Highway Patrol
helicopter, and then transported to Mercy Medical Center, Mt. Shasta.
Luckily, the ice axe had done little damage internally.

9. Analysis of Accident:
The USFS Climbing Rangers, outfitter guides and the retail shops which
rent mountaineering equipment for Mt. Shasta, work hard every season to
educate climbers about the use of ice axes and crampons. Unfortunately,
every year there are accidents on Mt. Shasta from improper use of
equipment even after people have been informed. Glissading with crampons
can be hazardous to your health! Usually, leg fractures occur from this
type of accident, but, amazingly, the climber had no fractures.

10. Additional comments:
Cloudy conditions and the time of day made this rescue difficult.