We had left the village of Sor Laspor slightly after 3 P.M., riding up the switchbacks of the Shandur Pass, which looked like a giant 'Z' carved into the side of the mountian. Our horses were panting and we had to stop ever 20 minutes to let them breathe rest. Growing between the cracks of therocks on the side of the road and up the mountian side were minuscule wild high mountian flowers. Brilliant shades of white, purple, blue, and pink. Occasionally we have to stop to make room on the dirt and gravel track for jeeps that are ferrying people and supplies up for the annual (here it seems annual means every several years) polo game between Chitral and Gilgit. We wrapped our turban ends around our mouths to keep from choking on the dust. On one side the valley of Sor Laspor dropped away, mists and clouds below us. The peak of Buni Zom (6551m/21,492ft) rising up directly behind Sor Laspor, to the west. We crested the pass around 8:00, riding through a small defile of rock. Before us a field of short grass and a lake mirroring the last azure shades of the sunset. Beyond the lake we saw an encampment of scattered tents and cook fires were people had set up for the up coming polo match. There was rain in the wind. We made for the warmth of the fires.
The morning of July 24 I emerged from my tent (which was dripping with condensation) at 4:45 to check the weather and the horses. They were shivering. So was I! I walked down to the edge of the lake to use the 'facilities' and was treated to a rainbow. The peak of Buni Zom, beyond the rainbow, was shrouded in mist and clouds. Cold, but very beatiful! I mused about how hot it must be in Peshawar.